
What "cycling" means
Axolotls produce ammonia through waste and uneaten food. Ammonia is toxic. In a cycled tank, beneficial bacteria living mostly in the filter convert it:
Ammonia → nitrite (also toxic) → nitrate (much less harmful, removed by water changes)
A new tank has none of these bacteria. "Cycling" means growing them before the axolotl moves in.
What you need
- The tank set up with its filter running (sponge filter or canister with a spray bar)
- Dechlorinator (water conditioner) that removes chlorine and chloramine
- Pure ammonia (unscented, no surfactants) or a bottled ammonium chloride product made for fishless cycling
- A liquid test kit for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH (test strips are less accurate)
- Optional: a bottled beneficial bacteria product, or filter media from a healthy established tank
Step-by-step fishless cycle
- Fill and dechlorinate the tank. Set up the filter, substrate (bare, tile or fine sand) and décor.
- Dose ammonia to about 2 ppm. Add a few drops, wait an hour, test, and adjust. Write down how much it took.
- Test every 1–2 days. Record ammonia, nitrite and nitrate.
- When ammonia starts dropping and nitrite appears (often after 1–3 weeks), re-dose ammonia to 2 ppm whenever it falls near 0.
- Keep going as nitrite rises and then falls. Nitrite often spikes high and is usually the slowest stage.
- Do the 24-hour test. When a 2 ppm ammonia dose drops to 0 ppm ammonia and 0 ppm nitrite within 24 hours, the tank is cycled.
- Do a big water change (with dechlorinated water close to the tank temperature) to bring nitrate under 20 ppm.
- Add the axolotl and test regularly over the first few weeks.
Typical readings
| Stage | Ammonia | Nitrite | Nitrate |
|---|---|---|---|
| Week 1 | High (2 ppm) | 0 | 0 |
| Weeks 1–3 | Falling | Rising | Starting to appear |
| Weeks 3–6 | Drops to 0 quickly | High, then falling | Rising |
| Cycled | 0 within 24 h | 0 within 24 h | Rising (water change before adding axolotl) |
Tips and troubleshooting
- Cycle stalled? Check pH: bacteria slow down below about pH 6.5. Also make sure ammonia hasn't gone far above 4 ppm, which can slow the cycle.
- Temperature: bacteria grow faster in warmer water. You can cycle a little warmer than axolotl temperatures (with no axolotl in the tank), then cool it before adding the animal.
- Don't clean the filter under tap water. Rinse sponges in old tank water during water changes so you don't kill the bacteria.
- Don't use fish food or "ghost feeding" if you can avoid it: it's harder to dose accurately and can grow mould.
Keeping it cycled
Once cycled, keep the tank healthy:
- Partial water changes of about 20–30% weekly.
- Test water weekly with a liquid kit.
- Remove uneaten food.
- Keep ammonia and nitrite at 0 ppm and nitrate under 20 ppm.
For temperature, tank size and feeding, see the full axolotl care sheet, and check which tank mates are safe for axolotls.
FAQ
How long does it take to cycle an axolotl tank? Usually 4–8 weeks.
How do I know it's cycled? A 2 ppm ammonia dose drops to 0 ammonia and 0 nitrite within 24 hours.
Can I cycle with the axolotl in? Risky; test daily and change water whenever ammonia or nitrite are above 0.25 ppm.